Masai Mara

Two weekends ago, Hugh and Marty treated me to a trip to the Masai Mara. As our loyal readers know, this trip was snatched from our very fingers when Amy and I were here. Literally on the morning when we were going to pack the car and leave, we heard that “Migori is in war” and that we could not travel. Instead, we spent that weekend playing cards. From watching lions to searching for the queen of hearts. What a let down.

H&M empathized with this disappointment. And as a result, they thought that it would be nice to try to make it up to me by taking me there. Of course, my better half was still missing, teaching French in Indiana. They did explain to me that were it in their power to teleport her across the ocean for our weekend, they would have done so. Alas, our rudimentary African technology fails us again. There was no transporter to facilitate a trip for 2 couples. Rather, it was one couple with a spare wheel. But it was better than nothing. And it was definitely better than nothing.

The road that we take is the one the locals in this area would use. It’s dirt all the way. We drive into Migori and promptly drive out again. It takes us through the Kurya area and into the Transmara which is the Maasai dominated area right outside the park. I realize now that the road conditions to the park and in the park would necessitate longer times of rest for Amy to allow sufficient time to recover from the violent jostling experienced by the bumpy roads. Consequently, despite the assertion of some people that a 3 day visit to the Mara is sufficient, if one wants to thoroughly enjoy the park as well as not create the need for more hip surgery, our original plan of 6 days was indeed wise.

We left at 8:30 am and go to the Mara around 12 pm after buying some supplies in Migori. Our plan was to improvise the whole way. During the week, H&M had tried to reserve lodging. However, their efforts were thwarted by the insistence of the Masai Mara hotels to ensure that their contact numbers are either wrong or unlisted. Therefore, despite many phone calls, we departed for our safari with no knowledge of where we would sleep.

Thankfully, as the Irish would say, and Hugh and Marty being Irish said it, Hugh kissed the blarney stone, i.e. he can talk himself into and out of anything. This ability meant that we were able to stay at the luxurious Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp for a reasonable resident rate – affordable for a 2 night stay, not if one wanted to stay for 6 days. The digs were nice! I have pictures of them that I will post on the web when I get back. Needless to say, comfort and food were not an issue. It’s full board, by the way.

At the camp, they have resident, domesticated warthogs. I think their job is to mow the lawn. In fact, Marty suggested and I agreed that we should get some warthogs for Matoso so that our grounds will forever be groomed. All they do is eat grass and they are otherwise completely benign. Perhaps, they could even guard the place. I concur with Marty that they would have been a great addition to the compound. Unfortunately, litters wouldn’t be born again until August and we were unsuccessful in pinching one from the park. Still, it could be an assignment for the new volunteers - a present for Marty on her arrival, perhaps. I will mention it to them.

The days were full of driving, including the day of our arrival. We enjoyed watching the animals very much. Sitting in the car in the middle of a herd of elephants watching them do their everyday activities is both relaxing and exciting at the same time. We could spend hours just being one other animal in the Mara spending time with everyone else. Granted, we are animals in a metal SUV, eating the stuff that we bring in rather than the grass around us. It’s also a bit exciting because we are indeed in the wilderness. These animals are wild and at one point one of the African elephant females was flapping her ears at us, a sign to us to back off. Hugh promptly obliged by reversing the truck but the herd of elephants was big enough that most of our paths to escape towards the main road were blocked. In fact, the exciting-ness of the particular situation increased when Dad called me on my cell phone. Since I was negligent and didn’t turn it off, it rang. After more than 2 weeks of no communication with each other, as they were in Thailand, I had to whisper, “please call me back in 3 or 4 hours. Bye.” No explanation, nothing. Dad probably wondered what the hell I was up to.

In the early afternoons and evenings, we would enjoy gourmet meals prepared by the hotel. They were very good. Between Amy’s cooking, Marty’s cooking, and the meals at Kichwa Tembo, I gained about 10 pounds since returning to Africa. I guess that fast metabolism of mine is starting to slow down. Oh well, I’ll just have to exercise like everybody else to maintain this wonderful Herculean figure of mine.

In the end, we saw lots of ungulates like gazelles, impalas; giraffes, elephants, hippos; a single crocodile; 3 lionesses; cheetahs including one (it could have been a leopard) trying to chase down a warthog lunch. That was pretty awesome. We were also entertained by some Maasai warrior dancers. That was an interesting spectacle, too.

So, overall it was a great experience. It wasn’t six days in the Mara camping with Amy, but it was nonetheless a wonderful time. We had 2 days in the tented camp as opposed to the one that we had originally reserved. We didn’t get to see a Rhino but now there is a reason to come back.

A Week of Firsts

Well, I have finished my first week of work here. Despite the fact that a separation of 2 ½ months from my family is a long time, it has become clear that it is an extremely short time for the sort of work that we are trying to accomplish here. In just the few days that I have been here, we have had meetings that have unearthed challenges regarding funding, community support, organizational support from other NGO’s and the government, and resources for certain programs. I definitely have my work cut out for me, let alone the new volunteers who are coming in.

On the plus side, the changes that we instituted last year prior to my departure have beared fruit. At one time when seeing more than 20 patients a day was a cumbersome ordeal, we can now see more than 30 without breaking a sweat. In my absence, they even established a new record of 57 patients in one day. And even with that load, their record keeping, data acquisition, and care (I hope) was maintained at a high quality. A very encouraging accomplishment for them and secondarily for me. I am a bit disappointed that I was not here to witness or be a part of that milestone.

As for other firsts, I have established a new record for the “Evil” level on my Sudoku, as well as another top score on Bejeweled for my palm. It’s been almost 2 years since I have even been able to establish any type of high score on that game. Getting the top score was a very pleasant surprise. Similarly, I am the “Snake Master” on my snake game on my cell phone, another position that has evaded me for a long time. And when Joseph and I were doing yoga the other day, I was able to touch my feet in one of the stretches. Alas, I cannot still touch my feet when I do the forward fold. I guess it’s still something to aspire towards.

After finishing Coyote Blue this morning, I can firmly say that Christopher Moore is my favorite author. He is the first and only one to achieve this discintion. Even though others have written masterpieces that I consider my favorite books of all time, and Moore has yet to accomplish such a singular achievement, his opus is so entertaining, educational, insightful, and action-packed that even his inferior books are for me worth a re-read.

In addition, I am now the first volunteer in Kenya to have his own flushing toilet. It’s in my room, no less. I christened it for the first time 2 days ago. And earlier, I took the first shower in my bathroom also.

And most significantly is the accomplishment of two opposing politicians successfully creating a coalition government on a continent renowned for resolving its political issues by trying to liquidate their opponents. One could probably argue that this event is the first occurrence of its kind in recent global history. Had we had such forward thinking in 2000, perhaps we wouldn’t have a quarter-million Iraqi bodies on our national conscience.

But I shall not bring us down on this week of firsts. It should be one for celebrations – big and small. We certainly are happy here, especially for my new high scores.